Choose the right light in which you do your make-up. Day-time make-up is best put in daylight by the window. Evening make-up should be done in front of a centrally positioned electric light.
Use a hand-mirror for really close work, i.e., applying the eye-liner or the mascara.
Apply make-up on a skin that is freshly cleansed, toned and moisturized. Wait for five minutes before starting your make-up.
Give yourself enough time to do a good job. Plan your look before you start laying your equipment in front of you.
Keep your make-up kit clean and tidy. Sharpen all your pencils and make sure your brushes are clean and no residue of the previous make-up is left on it.
Steps to a Perfect Base
The best product that has hit the Indian market for giving you a light coverage is the ‘White Light’ by Face to Face, available in all leading cosmetic shops. This is suitable for all skin types. Another product is Oil of Ulay’s ‘White Beauty Fluid’ that gives a matte finish.
Procedure : After shaking the bottle/jar, dampen your cosmetic sponge with cool water and then squeeze dry. Apply the base on your cheeks and then with the sponge, sweep out to over your temples.
Work on the other cheek, forehead, chin and neck – part by part. Do not apply all over your face and neck by dabbing it all at once because :
You might apply more than you need and wiping it off will not only result in wastage but will also drag the skin unnecessarily.
Not everyone has an even skin tone. Some parts require more than the others.
Double-check your blending with the fingertips, being extra careful around eyes and nostrils.
Concealer For hiding spots, blotches and deeper discolouration, you need heavier concealers which should be firm-textured – neither too dry, nor too greasy to blend.
Procedure : Rub a little concealer on a firm, flat brush. Dab the concealer over spots and blotches. Wait for five minutes so that is adheres well to the base.
Powder What varnish is to an oil painting, translucent powder is to the base. It seals, sets and fixes. Whilst it helps even out the tone, it absorbs any shine.
Procedure : Use a large puff. Dip into the loose translucent powder and press firmly over your face and neck.
Steps to that Perfect Blusher
The most flattering of the colour cosmetics – that not only accentuates the cheek bones but gives the impression of a soft healthy glow, is the blusher.
Selective and clever usage omits the needs for shaders – especially during day time. Use two shades of the same colour-a light and a dark to shape the face.
Blusher strengthens and livens the face
Deep shades are more suitable for evenings
Rose-pin and coral colours are fresh looking and give flow for natural day-time look.
Soft coral and warm rose tints suit pale skin
Warm pinks suit olive skin
Powder the blusher with a blusher brush to give you more control.
Procedure : Start from the bulbous piece at the entrance of the ear down to the corner of your mouth by placing a thin handled brush across the cheek. This helps define the angle.
Use a light shade of blusher 2" up from the line and then use a dark shade 1" up from this line.
Do not apply the blusher any lower down the cheek bone than the end of your nose.
Do not apply the blusher closer to the centre of your face than the outer corner of your eye.
Do not apply the blusher any higher than the temples
Steps to Perfect Eye Make-up
Your eyes are the most expressive feature of your face. They have the power of implying emotion without the rest of your face even twitching a muscle. Eye shadows are obviously the most prominent cosmetic in your make-up kit. Some shades though flatter more than the others.
BROWNS are gentle enough to suit all eye colours. They intensify pale eyes by sheer contrast and make brown eyes look richer.
OLIVE TONES can give a very natural warmth for an outdoor look. Use a low key pearl or matte for daytime. A little pearl highlighter brightens and makes all the difference any time.
Eye Pencils Should be thin, matte and come in a variety of browns. It is often a good idea to use more than one shade for textured natural looking brow work. Keep the sharpened pencils in a cool place.
Eye Liners Cake type, which is more versatile, is the best as it allows you to mix up your own consistency with water depending on how strong you want your colour to be. Definite dark outlining of eyes is no longer in fashion.
Mascara Firm, slow sweeps are the key to well coated lashes and unscathed surrounding lids.
Make sure your brush is evenly coated with mascara with no gluts or clogs.
Look down into your mirror and firmly brush the top side of your upper lashes.
Separate clogged lashes with a clean dry mascara brush.
Looking upward into the mirror, coat your lower lashes with the mascara wand stroking across them outwards, then inwards
Steps to Perfect Lipstick
Your lip colour should flatter and liven your complexion. Pale skins should avoid strong, vivid colours which may harden the look. Dark sin looks exotic with bright, punchy flame-like colours. Sallow skins should avoid yellow tones like oranges and some browns. Matte lipsticks are no longer in fashion. Glossy lip colours are in vogue.
Procedure :
With a lip brush, make a ‘v’ on the cut on the upper lip and outline either side to the out corners.
Follow the lip line down either side of the lower lip meeting at the centre.
Fill in with lipstick directly applied within the outline.
For a richer effect apply clear gloss to the centre of your lips.
Creating the Illusion!
Use a dark foundation by two shades of your skin colour. Its job is to create shadows, to slim, minimize and hollow. So, it should essentially be matte as any sheen would catch the light and bring it to the fore.
Highlighter Its job is to pick out your ‘high’ spots like your cheek bones, brow bones chin and the centre of your nose. They can be peach, ivory or white with silver or gold sheen.
Slimming a Plump Face : Shade the temple hollows just in front of the hairline and create more definite hollows under the cheek bones. Apply highlighter on the brow bone, blending up beyond the brow itself to bring the bone forward. Highlight and cheekbone from its highest point along towards the hairline.
Shortening a Long Face : Blend shader from just under the chin slightly upwards onto the chin mound. Shade the forehead at the temples, working around to the hairline and gradually fading out at mid-brow. Lightly shade around the jaw line. Highlight the cheekbones and brow bones.
Softening a Square Face : Shade the four corner ‘angles’ of the face-the temples, following the hairline round just onto the brow, the squares of the jawbone from below the ears to either side of the chin. Highlight the lower half of the chin, the centre brow down the nose and the cheek bones.
Slimming a Wide Face : Blend the shaders either side of the bridge deep into the inner eye corners and fairly either side of the nose itself. Slim the nostrils by shading into the creases. Highlight all along the centre of the nose.
Softening a Pointed Chin : Blend the shader upwards on the chin. Highlight the jawbone on the either side of the chin.